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Creative Computers CD-ROM, Volume 1 (Legendary Design Technologies, Inc.)(1994).iso
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star_trek
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3-d_chess.pp
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3-d_chess
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1994-11-17
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146 lines
TRIDIMENSIONAL CHESS
Excerpts from original article by Andrew Bartmess. in the "Star Trek
Giant Poster Book" Issue 14, October 1977 Published by Paradise Press
Incorporated
A STANDARD tri-dimensional chess set consists of three main boards and
four moveable attack boards. The lowermost board holds White's chessmen
at the opening of the game and is termed "White's Board (W)". The middle
board is the "Neutral Board (N)" and the top board is "Black's Board (B)".
The attack boards start the game on the rear pegs of the Black and White
boards, and are referred to as "Queen's Level (QL)" and "King's Level (KL)"
depending upon which level holds the King and Queen at the start of the game.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I I I I I
-----------------
I I I I I
-----------------
I P I P I P I P I
--------- ----------------- ---------
I P I P I IKT I B I B IKT I I P I P I
--------- ----------------- ---------
I R I Q I I K I R I
--------- ---------
STARTING POSITION
The easiest way to learn Tri-D chess is to begin by looking at the chess
board from the top. The three main boards form one board eight squares
long and four squares wide, with the attack boards overhanging at the
corners. Imagine this overview as one flat board; any move you can make
in a standard chess game (flat board) you can make in Tri-D chess, but
you have the option of deciding which level you wish to land on. Since
every overlapping square is the same colour, you can land on either.
Two chessmen of the same (or different) colours can occupy the same
(3 min left), (H)elp, More? square (on different levels). For notation
purposes, the main board is listed in four files (Queen's Knight, Queen's
Bishop, King's Bishop and King's Knight from left to right) and eight ranks,
followed by the board which the piece lands on (ex: Queen to QKt6, N)
Queen's King's
Level Level
--------- ---------
I 4 I 2 I I 2 I 4 I
---------------------------
I 3 I 1 I I I 1 I 3 I
---------------------------
I I I I I
------------------- Black
I I I I I Board
-------------------
Io I I I oI
-------------------
I I I I I
------------------- Neutral
Io I I I oI Board
-------------------
I I I I I White Board
---------------------------
I 4 I 2 I I I 2 I 4 I
---------------------------
I 3 I 1 I I 1 I 3 I
--------- ---------
Queen's King's
Level Level
^ ^ ^ ^
I I I I
QKt QB KB KKt
File File File File
The attack boards, when occupied by a pawn or less, may move to any adjacent
pin position and such action constitutes one move. The attack boards are
fantastic devices; in three quick moves you can move your pawn into your
opponent's "Queening Zone" (the last rank of the B or W boards, or the
attack boards) and reclaim a captured Queen.
The levels have their own notations; Queen's Level One is the square
on which the Queen starts the game, QL2 is the Queen's Pawn's starting
position, QL3 is the Qr, and QL4 is the QRP. Reversely, KL1 holds the
King, KL2 is KP, KL3 is KR, and KL4 is the KRP. This notation is like
the ranks; when looking at your opponent's attack boards, you number
them exactly like your own.
There are three ways of opening a Tri-D chess game: you may open with
a Knight (ex: Kt-QB3, N) or with one of the four pawns on the main boards
of each board are listed in this manner:
all pins on the King's side of the board are "King's Pins" and all those
on the Queen's side are "Queen's Pins". On each board the closest pin is
designated One, the one fathest away is Two. Thus, the attack boards
begin the game on QP1 and KP1.
After three pieces have left the QL or KL you are left with one pawn
which overhangs the main board. To free it, you may move (for example)
QL-QP1, N and in your next move cross to the other side of the board;
QL-KP1, N thus placing the pawn over the board. Once the attack boards
have left the opening position, they become capturable pieces. An attack
board (let's say White's) can be captured in this manner: the attack
board is occupied by *one* of white's pieces. If one of Black's
chessmen can capture White's piece, and becomes the only piece on the
attack board, the board is considered to be Black's property. Black
would control three attack boards instead of the two he started out
with. White can recapture the Level in the same manner, and so it goes.
If you can capture the attack board with a pawn, you can begin moving it
immediately.
Empty Levels are effectively "neutral" and remain the property of the
original owner, free to maneuver. To be captured, an attack board must
be occupied by a chessman.
Any time after the first move a King may "castle" by exchanging places
with the King's Rook. To castle on the Queen's side you must move the
Queen out of QL1. Once this square is clear, you move K-QL1 and QR-KL1,
thus castling.
A piece may *not* drop down a level to the same square. Such a move
when viewed from above would be the same as standing still. When making
a move that remains on one board, all moves are the same as on a regular
chess board. When in doubt on a move that crosses a level (ex: moving
a Queen from QL1, B to QKt8, W) you must look down from above the board.
If a piece is blocking your move (just as if the squares were on a flat
board) you can't make the move. You can, however, move your piece onto
the square just above or below the block and attempt the move in more
than one turn.
The strategy of Tri-D chess is simple: by deploying your men all
over the levels you increase the the possibility that you opponent
will overlook one of your key men. Conversely, you must check out
your moves carefully before making them, or you may discover that your
Queen has been taken by a Pawn that was hidden three levels down.
This is also the main reason for moving and inverting (ex: QL X) the
attack boards, which counts as one move. Just one more out-of-the-way
square to be overlooked by your opponent. Although looking at the
game from the top is a good way to learn how to play, by the time you
have played a few games you should be able to play without standing
up, just envisioning the moves in your mind.
Well, that's it. A few notes are in order: you should have a good
knowledge of standard chess before attempting this game. Also, if
you are a good chess player you can probably come up with some
good modifications to improve playability (as some of my friends
did). For example, the "blocking rule" could be modified so you can
move "through" a piece in your way if that piece will be above
(or was it below?) you during the move.
Making the board should be no problem; my friend used 1/4" clear
plexiglass for the boards and used a router to put a grid of
channels on them to make the squares; the frame can be made out of
welded metal. I suggest making the attack boards as light as possible
so you can invert them, else you'll have to hold them in place.